Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I recently bought the Masterset MS121 in order to use it to control my late 2016 MacBook Pro With the touch bar. However, I found that the keyboard did not work at all. It does not light up or show any form of life. I have plugged it into a windows PC an I have found that it works on that, then I plugged it into an iMac and it doesn't work there either. Is there any way that I can get it working on Mac or will I have to get a refund? Are any of the CM keyboards Mac compatible? Thanks in advance.
  2. 2 points
    I have a X299 Gigabyte Aorus Ultra gaming pro on the cooler master webpage its advertised as the led on the case can be controlled by the motherboard On the case there is a 3 pin connection with the word gigabyte but im unable to control the led lights via my motherboard gigabyte web page has this: RGB FUSION support Digital LED and RGBW Light Strips From Cooler Master webpage: I/O Port - Fans/LightingFan Speed Control Button, ARGB Control Button I also own the Corsair RGB eco system with a commander pro ect ect Anyway I can control the lights on the case with the corsair software? I want to change the case light strips with white, but i cannot control the case lights other than using the default functions via the case button
  3. 2 points
    Hello guys, I'm building my ultimate PC RIG and, obviously, I couldn't do that without CoolerMaster Components! I just bought (1 week ago) a CoolerMaster Mastercase H500M PC Case and I also bought one of the latest MSI Motherboards (MSI Z390 ACE). I know that both the PC Case and the MoBo support ARGB. My H500M has an internal ARGB Controller (screwed to a side panel) but since I want to sync the H500M Fan Lights with MSI Mystic Light (so that my FANS, MoBO, RAM, PSU and SSD are all syncronized in terms of RGB Lights), I would like to know how to proper set the wire connections up. So far I have connected the ARGB Fans from the H500M to the H500M Controller and then I connected the Controller to my JRAINBOW Connection on the Motherboard. Will this be enough to let the Motherboard control the Lights? Or do I need to connect the fans directly to my MoBo? Also I'm planning on buying a CPU RGB Watercooler. I noticed that the H500M RGB Controller has two inputs. One is being used for the RGB Fans as I mentioned above, can I use the other input for the CPU WaterCooler? Thank you very much for your help, you guys rock! Joao Pereira
  4. 2 points
    Hey, what kind of sound do you hear?
  5. 2 points
    I have pointed down psu's fan and it's fine. And u should connect fans to the splitter and splitter to the desk to some SYS_FAN. With MB530P is included just splitter to the psu, not to mobo so you should buy if you wanna control it.
  6. 2 points
    Hey, lol, I have exactly same prob with exact components.. and u should connect it to ARGB header, not RGB. But I did it and it didnt help me... Idk what to do.
  7. 2 points
    I WORKED IT OUT!!! I have the CM ML120 with only one fan connected but this will work if you are using two. I should've done some research because the advertising on the box said Aura Sync, and I would assume it was illegal to advertise such things if it weren't available. I followed all the instructions that was given in the manual, plug cables into AIO header and CPU header, plug the other pump cable into the controller, plug the fans into the splitter which plugs into the controller, then i had to power the bloody thing too and figured out why it didn't work. then with a little research, the thought process was I had to plug SOMETHING into the RGB header on the motherboard... but the question was what! then after a little bit of playing around with different cables (including the 4 pin cable) plugging in and out of the controller it donned on me.... I needed a splitter that connected the pump and fans, and plug that directly into the RGB header on the motherboard. and then Bobs your uncle. Aura sync works instantly!!! So just to reiterate what I have done. Coolermaster supply a 3 way splitter, which you plug the female plugs from the pump and fan(s) into using the Male-Male adapters. Then simply plug the single female end into the 3pin RGB port on your motherboard.
  8. 2 points
    you need to download the masterplus instead of the rgb software. ARGB BOX Firmware v1.0.0.1
  9. 1 point
    Thanks bro big save wish this software was was in the box on small CD drive or on their front pages easy access, think its being phased out for Master Plus, yea Master Plus needs alot of work still hope they get it working soon
  10. 1 point
    So the title pretty much says it all - I consider Cooler Master Inferno to be one of the best mice even by today's standards. Sure it might be a little dated with a 4000DPI sensor and lack of proper RGB, but it has something that no other mouse in the world has - excellent symmetrical placement of 11 buttons combined with support for a lot of customization thanks to the "Storm Tactics Multiplier key" and easily accessible profile switch button (can't believe I'm marketing a CM mouse back to CM :P). This makes the mouse into a multimedia powerhouse without the need to place more than 3 buttons under the thumb. I'd love to see an updated version of Inferno hit the market one day. My couple of ideas: Leave the button placement as is. The way each button on top has a counterpart (symmetry) creates some good mapping opportunities. For example I have set up Storm Tactics (let's call it ST for short) + left click to be browser tab to the left, ST + right click is browser tab to the right ST + right quick fire key is close tab while ST + left quick fire key is restore recently closed tab. On another profile I have multimedia control set up - ST + left quick fire - volume down, ST + right quick fire - volume up, ST + MMB - mute sound and right quick fire is just space (for stopping and starting playback). For even more functionality the scroll button could also click to the left and right - that's two extra buttons without changing the overall mouse layout, Obviously update the sensor (don't get me wrong, it's a very good sensor but 4000DPI might not be enough for some people and some high resolution displays nowadays), Add proper RGB this time around, I would like to see support for more than just 3 profiles and a couple of scripts, I don't know how good the PC software for your newest mice is, but the one for Inferno while usable has some weird quirks and is overly complicated and unintuitive - it might discourage some people. Leave the DPI setting indicator - I love it! Add replacable weights for even more customization! I wanted to write to you (CM) about this for a long time actually - I'm still using an Inferno that I bought 7 years ago (it's my second one actually) and I'm afraid that when it breaks I'll lose a lot of functionality because Infernos are impossible to find anymore and no other mouse has what it has. And also having an updated version with even better functionality would be a godsend.
  11. 1 point
    Are you using the correct sofware? There is the Cooler Master LED Controller software and there is the MasterPlus Beta Software. The LED Controller software has the mirage stuff on it and what you want to use. https://coolermaster.egnyte.com/dl/Z4xAkaxEXA
  12. 1 point
    Hello, This is what I've done. I received a replacement part yesterday by mail. Very reactive support ! Thanks a lot.
  13. 1 point
    Open a Ticket (took 2 days for me to get a answer). Had the same Problem u need a new top, front and a new pcb. Seems u got two old models. They changed a lot
  14. 1 point
    You can use the glass panel from C700P case: https://www.cmstore.eu/case/dual-curved-tempered-glass-side-panel-for-cosmos-c700p/. I've asked them in 2018 the same question and they said it would fit. If you need proof I can post a screenshot from my e-mail or you could contact them directly at: shop@coolermaster.eu .
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    A very BIG THANK YOU for your great support, I've received three new fans for my cooler in just one week!!! I have already installed them on my system and everything is QUIET and COOL!!! Thank you very much!!!
  17. 1 point
    Here you go. Manual.zip
  18. 1 point
    I still have the original paper manual so if you still need it I can scan it for you.
  19. 1 point
    Hello, not sure if you solved your issue or not, but I just went through similar issues with a new H500m and the MSI Gaming Pro Carbon Motherboard. I did eventually get the front fans to be connected in the Mystic Light software. The case should come with a 3-1 fan splitter already connected and that plugs into a normal fan header on the MB to run the fans. The two RGB cables from the fans get combined into the RGB controller. To get it to work with MSI Mystic Light, I connected the front panel reset switch to the controller, the micro-usb cable to a usb 2.0 header on the MB, the aRGB output cable to JRAINBOW on the MB, and the SATA power cable from my power supply. If that's all connected, open up Mystic Light and select JRAINBOW. Set it to Steady and pick a unique color that stands out. Now, use the reset button to cycle through the rgb controller pre-sets until you find the steady color you picked. Now you've selected the JRAINBOW channel and anything you set to it in ML will show on the front fans. Hope this helps ~Von
  20. 1 point
    Thanks to CM Michiel. Useful tip.
  21. 1 point
    I was wondering if I could fix the terrible airflow without sacrificing too much of the looks of the MasterBox Lite 5, by replacing the front panel of the Lite 5 with the front panel of the MasterBox MB511. Would it fit without issues? Thanks!
  22. 1 point
    does anyone have the firmware they can upload all the links to cooler master dont work
  23. 1 point
    I can confirm this; airflow is appalling. How about making a simple mesh front panel?
  24. 1 point
    I second this. Would like to have an answer.
  25. 1 point
    I also created a account to say thank you! I ripped my computer to pieces, rebuilt and reinstalled it. For this. Although I never experienced any anomalies typeing. But playing CS:GO with this repeat-rate-madness, aw my gaaaawd!
  26. 1 point
    so a ARGB controller will not work you need something like this http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cooling-rgb-accessories/rgb-led-controller/ its a rgb controller you need
  27. 1 point
    I, sadly, also have created an account just to say thank you. I was trying to figure out how the "FN" things worked, and I pressed 4X thinking it would make the colors move faster...
  28. 1 point
    Now Jan 5th 2019. No fans, no support! Guess Gold333 is correct, should buy from a respectable company.
  29. 1 point
    The forum where there are no replies or any input from staff, moderators, members or any technical support staff of cooler master. A complete waste of time, effort and server space. What a joke.
  30. 1 point
    Just wondering if anyone has a mesh front for this case. When i take off the front panel temps drop about 5-10 degrees. I have the three fans up front, a 240 mlrgb aio push pull on the top ( top and middle fans). If no one has a front mesh cover, would it be better to just take the aio off and go air cooled for the cpu? Would that give me better air flow? I prefer staying with the AIO if i can get a front mesh cover. Thank you.
  31. 1 point
    So I just finished building my PC, and am working on setting everything up with asus aura. Everything is linked and all, it's just that the fans and pump aren't going to the colours I set them to. one fan (lets call it fan 1) and the pump go one colour while the other fan(lets call it fan 2) goes a completely different colour. if I set the aura to blue, fan 2 turns off, if I set it red, the pump and fan 1 turn pink and fan 2 goes green, and If I set it to green, fan 1 and pump go sort of a minty-green and fan 2 goes red. any colour in between and the pump and fan 1 goes a very muted colour near the requested colour and fan 2 goes to a seemingly unkoun colour. If anyone can help me that would be GREATLY APPRECIATED Thanks in advance for your time
  32. 1 point
    in my opinion the controller should work with the fans. just make sure you get the right controller. there is RGB and Addressable RGB (mini one). get the RGB controller for your fans.
  33. 1 point
    Can you turn a cosmos C700p into a C700m ?
  34. 1 point
    Maybe try to get one from cmstore? https://www.cmstore.eu/spare-parts/masterbox-5-full-front-panel-mesh/ For me I have replaced MasterBox 5 White full front mirror panel with this full front mesh panel. I believe it is compatible with MasterBox 5 Pro RGB as well. If in doubt, do request a support ticket in CM Fanzone and they do answer professionally from my experience.
  35. 1 point
    I am shocked nobody responded to you. To answer your 1st question about USB 3.1 and 3.0 - the Cosmo C700P comes with a USB 3.1 connection wire as you discovered but it's a little ahead of it's time so the particular motherboard you have does not have a USB 3.1 header so you're not going to plug that cable into anything unless you upgrade your motherboard that has a 3.1 header. 3.1 connections exist in the back on the i/o ports. ASMedia® USB 3.1 Gen 2 controller : 1 x USB 3.1 Gen 2 port(s) (1 at back panel, teal blue, Type-A, Support 3A power output) ASMedia® USB 3.1 Gen 2 controller : 1 x USB 3.1 Gen 2 port(s) (1 at back panel, , USB Type-CTM, Support 3A power output) Source: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-Z370-A/specifications/ For question 3 , this is where you get your lighting and fan control speeds from. The manual could be better but basically it's identifying your sata power connectors, fan connectors and lighting connectors. I don't know a better way to explain that. Sorry it's a late response , hope it helps.
  36. 1 point
    I'm having the same issue. Purchased a 3pk of RGB 120mm fans with a controller. One of the fans has red and green reversed.
  37. 1 point
    I purchased this today as it's listed on Asus own website that its Aura sync compatible. After slogging through the TERRIBLE manual (come on Coolermaster!), i found hours later despite numerous tries that no, it is not compatible with Aura. The Aura plugin is visible when you download the software from CM, but it's greyed out for me. EDIT: Figured it out and got it to sync with Asus Aura - the ML240 needs to have the CM software installed to enable Asus Aura (although the AURA & AURORA plugins are still unaccessible from the software.) I detached the controller and just used the 3in1 aRGB cable, plugged that into the aRGB of the Z370-F, opened both CM & Aura apps, and it synced.
  38. 1 point
    Seeing as no one has answered this I will. NO! it's not compatible with Aura. You cannot plug the ML240/120R fan or pump LEDs into the RGB header on an ASUS MB. The Aura compatible badge on the box is a scam to get you to buy it. How do I know? Well, I have been through two ML240R's. First ones LED's died within a week. Now the replacement controller box has died and I'm waiting for Coolermaster to answer my support ticket. I only bought this watercooler cause I thought it was compatible with my ASUS Aura M/B. BTW: I have 30 years of PC experience.
  39. 1 point
    Good Morning! I have a Cooler Master Cosmos S, but I can not connect the front connectors. I have doubts with this 3-pin connector, I do not know what its function. Somebody help me!! please?
  40. 1 point
    Wish I saw these posts before I ordered one. It's April 2018, no trays available anywhere.
  41. 1 point
    Yes , you can contact them at here via ticket : Request Ticket
  42. 1 point
    Did you ever happen to find a solution. I am experiencing the same issue are you are. I've tried everything
  43. 1 point
    Well I have Managed To Install The Coolermaster Master Air 8 CPU Cooler In CM 690 III Its perfectly installed in my CM 690 III as i was worried that it wont fit becouse cooler is big 172mm and on CM site it was given that CM 690III supports max of 171MM height CPU cooler But its fit even there is still more gap after closing the side panel like was using H100I previously now i got this monster and i am really impressed really... My I5 4670K Overclocked @4.4Ghz and max Temp after running prime 95 for 10 Min it wont exceed 60'C and my ambient Temp are 35'C+ i am from India Newdelhi and its summer time very hot and humid Here Are the Pictures
  44. 1 point
    Hello from me also, it might not be a CoolerMaster but i think it belongs here!! Here i give you CrackedTurbine case mod!!
  45. 1 point
    Hi I dont find the Connectors for Power and HDD LEDs!!? Im going Crazy!! xD I hope someone can help! greez @all
  46. 1 point
    Hi Apollo, You might have turned on the repeat rate. Press FN+ F5 to set it back to 1x. FN+F5= Repeat rate 1x FN+F6= Repeat rate 2x FN+F7= Repeat rate 4x FN+F8= Repeat rate 8x Let me know if this solves the issue
  47. 1 point
    Received this bundle today and had the same input problem. After watching a few youtube reviews I came across one video where the girl mentioned the repeat rate, F9 and F10. Once I loaded up a game I confirmed that THAT was the problem. The 8x repeat rate messes with the directional inputs. Setting it back to the standard 1x (FN+F9) fixed it right there. I could even switch between the two to make sure that it was the culprit. I hope this helps anyone who is having this problem! =)
  48. 1 point
    Engraving your case is an incredibly rewarding thing to do to your case. It's one of the best ways of adding a totally unique feature and to make it stand out from the rest. You can engrave practically any design onto a metal section of your case. Best results are achieved with a painted/powdercoated/annodised case (most black cases have black powdercoated side panels). You'll need a selection of engraving tips for this task. The larger ball tips are good for engraving/shading large areas, while smaller nibs or tips can be useful for tracing outlines for crisp edges. We'll be using the template/transfer method, whereby you print your logo or image to be engraved onto a piece of paper, and use this as a guide to engrave your design onto your case. Logos like Cooler Master are fairly easy to trace. However if you want to engrave a more complicated images, say a fighter jet, you fist need to perform a bit of photo editing. Don't worry, it's quite easy and all you need is the free editing program called Paint.net [download here] Install and open paint then load your image. Under Adjustments, select and apply Invert Colours. Now go to the Effects menu and under artistic, select Ink Sketch. If need be adjust the Ink Outline slider bar to reduce the noise in the photo. Now go back and invert the colours again. This will have the effect of creating bold outlines and details that are easy to follow when you're engraving. For our example we've used a simple Cooler Master logo. All you need to do is print it out. Trim the paper to size so you can tape it to your case at the edges. Ensure there are no ripples in the paper and that it's secured firmly - you don't want it moving around while you are engraving. Make sure the area you intend to engrave is flat and free of features such as grilles or windows. The easiest way to engrave is to use a Dremel with a Flexible attachment. This allows you to use the engraving tip like a pen, which means the rest is as easy as colouring in a picture. It also means you're able to be far more accurate as using a Dremel alone is quite heavy and awkward to use. Before you start work on your image, get used to the various tips and how quickly they cut into the paint and metal. If possible use a hidden section of the case or old case to practice on. Start in the middle of the image and work your way out. In our example we began with the letters of the logo, tracing their outlines but doing any inner details first. Once you cut the outline the letter will come loose. Use the detail tip for the edges and the large ball tip for shading in the larger areas. You'll gradually work your way through the paper and reveal the bear metal beneath the paint. Once you do this, move on to other areas, focussing on keeping within your template. Once you're done with the letters, move on to the external ring. Once you cut through this, the whole template will come away so it's best to do this last. You'll probably need to remove the template and make some finishing touches to the engraving, clearing away any old paint from the silver letters so the look the same colour all over. If you've strayed into areas you didn't mean to engrave, you can touch these up with a black marker pen or paint brush. That's it! The great thing about engraving is that you can do it to practically any area of your case and the more you practice the better you'll get.
  49. 1 point
    Update: Using a surge protector took care of the issue. Thanks guys
  50. 1 point