Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    " DESERT RAT " This is the first time I am seriously participating in an international competition. Have also participated in competitions in several forums, but not done as seriously as this CMWS. The theme I use in the "Desert Rat" case is "Military Scifi". but you are free to translate it according to your own perspective. In each work that I make, I try a lot of ideas, and try to use many kinds of materials. For some circumstances, I am very interested in using acrylic or PVC sheet material in making PC modifications. One of my characteristics in PC modification is to manipulate 2D material into a 3D shape. Maybe there are still many shortcomings and require a lot of effort and criticism to improve my work. But it's ok, I accept it gracefully. Behind all this, I want to motivate many talented PC modders in my country. because, "There is never a competency that is not tested in a competition". Thank you in advance to many who have helped me in many ways. Thank you to CoolerMaster for giving me the opportunity in this prestigious competition Take the theme of the human struggle against heat in the desert. just as a PC fights heat from itself. The CoolerMaster product that I use: 1. MasterBox Lite 3.1 | MCW-L3B3-KANN-01 2. Tempered Glass for MasterBox Lite 3.1 | MCA-B300C-TGSP00-LGT 3. MasterFan MF120R ARGB | R4-120R-20PC-R1 x2 4. MasterLiquid ML120R ARGB | MLX-D12M-A20PC-R1 5. V650 | RS650-AFBAG1-EU 6. ARGB Splitter Cable | MFX-AWHN-3NNN1-R1 The hardware that I use in this project are: > MSI A320 PRO2-M2 > AMD Athlon 200GE > Transcend 4gb DDR4 > Samsung 256gb V-NAND NVME SSD > MSI GTX 1050 gaming X 2GB MasterBox Lite 3.1 | MCW-L3B3-KANN-01 Begin to release accessories on the casing I just took the frame as additional information, I don't use a 3D printer in this project. All the details that I made, using acrylic sheet materials with varying thicknesses, acrylic cylinders, and PETG tubing remaining pieces collect some details and match the size of the initial stages for the next worklog can be seen in the next column
  2. 4 points
    I even forgot to document the process of making a 70mm fan grill. The painting process has been done, even though I haven't yet smoothed every piece I have to repeat the process to make it look smoother. The fan intake that I used was taken from AMD cpu stock cooling fan some revisions must be made to the construction of the support, because there is a difference in the heavy fulcrum between the front and back of the casing. note: in the background there is a sliding window for the side panel that is too focused on it so I forgot to document it
  3. 3 points
    Work is almost done. Running test has been done. One of them is adjusting the lighting and color of the lights that will be used. Thanks God, everything went smoothly.
  4. 3 points
    a lot of work is not documented in detail. Maybe because I was too busy doing. I attach work whose details are not documented
  5. 3 points
    the workmanship that was late I posted. photos lost in the crowd. I did a basic painting. I forgot what date, but it was definitely done by the end of July the process of working 120mm fan grill that I forgot to document. and I only remembered to take a picture after it was done
  6. 3 points
    Why is not in Scratch!!! This is effing wild. Master class grade build right here FOR SURE!
  7. 3 points
    I made a hinge for the side panel cover. still from acrylic material
  8. 2 points
    hi guys and here is another little update, i have clad a lot of the frame with worbla andmust get some more tomorrow.i can only start placing everything inside when i know which cage holes will be open and which closed so lets get this done first. its gonna be tight getting this all ready for the CMWS2019 deadline.
  9. 2 points
    body coloring with primer and top coat paint. Do not forget to include weathering and battle damage effects. the finishing process is still not done until now
  10. 2 points
    front panel minor touch, moving from old case & old cooler to new case & new cooler
  11. 2 points
    It's just to awesome.... jangan lupa kopi nya master... #Sungkem
  12. 2 points
    push the limit
  13. 2 points
    Keep it On Master!!!!!!!
  14. 1 point
    The main color scheme for my case would be both polished and brushed silver, walnut wood, and black. To achieve what I wanted with Walnut, I would have to attach it to aluminum panels before it could me machined. The best way I could think of to accomplish this was with contact cement. To do this, I layed out all the panels and began covering the The walnut veneer took many coats since the veneer kept soaking up the glue but eventually it looked glossy, meaning there was enough glue on the surface to bond: Once the glue was dry I could carefully set the veneer over the aluminum and use a roller to squeeze out all of the air pockets and make a good bond: Once the glue was dry, I could finally start cutting panels for the case. I started with the back panel along with the motherboard try which would remain bare aluminum. I attached the panels together with square aliuminum bar stock and screws: From there, I could dial in the other panels with more test pieces: I decided to extend the "floor" fan grill into the front res/pump room to support the pump. Of course, this required another test piece: After a few tweaks I layed out the design on the final piece: And started cutting: About three hours later it was done. I had to stop the machine after each cutout to clean the tape goo off of the bit. I was worried the walnut veneer would chip but it turned out pretty clean: I repeated the same steps above for the top fan grill design. Its a good thing I made practice pieces because I messed up on a few parts that I wouldnt have caught otherwise: I machined some cutouts in the above piece to enable removal of the top section of the case. I also put some finish on the panel to see how the grain would pop against the silver aluminum: The walnut burl veneer's grain pops beautifully with a little finish on it: Before: After: And with the fans which will be mounted to the grill. I had them upside down in this photo though: Here's a couple of closeup shots of the bottom grille:
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Hi guys, here is another little update..
  17. 1 point
    Finally got started with the paintjob! I had a very specific idea for this: balancing a stone colour/effect with shiny red details that resembled the minerals inside the stone. For that purpose, I chose two colours for the stone, an avory white and a golden grey, and helped myself with two different stone effects from Rustoleum. They're simply clear coats with chunks of paint in it, that will simulate a stone-ish look after having dried. I started with the main frame of the chassis, giving it the golden grey Then I moved on to the two panels from the lightbox, as well as the two back panels (how cool to they look when clear? ). This time I went with the avory white And the internal top and bottom panels are done as well I also gave a stone look to the radiator, and now it's a true monolith with crystal fins! Some will have doubts about painting the fins, but to be honest, for what I want to achieve with this project, I won't need those 2-3 degrees, but I really needed to get rid of most of the black in the build It's external panels' turn now. I mainly used avory white for these, except for the plastic part of the front panel, for which I used the golden grey
  18. 1 point
    Looks great Nick! Love the custom paint job, PSU shroud and everything about this build, can't wait to see more pics!!
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Looking good bro! Keep up the good work
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    provide mild rust and weathering effects.
  23. 1 point
    Также были вырезаны наклейки для второго кожуха
  24. 1 point
    dadaekanan copas ih. foto barutut kitu
  25. 1 point
    A quick look at the first tubing mock-up. I thought I would do something less intricate with the loop this time but I just can't help it, I love parallel runs Made the bracket for the PSU mounting in the top section I reshaped the two back panels with this characteristic cut I'm bringing along this whole project, to make it smoother and more geometric Also began working on the front and top panels cutouts, I made this simple design in Silhouette Studio, cut the stencil and went over it with a pen once I applied it to the panel, this way all the sections in both panels will be exactly the same. It would've been hard doing it by hand since they're very irregular shapes. Obviously cut with my trusty scrollsaw And as anticipated in the previous post, I swapped the red LEDs of the lightbox with WRGB strips
  26. 1 point
    14: RADIATOR GRILLS - DESIGN I've been working with a couple of designs for my radiator grills and finished off with these two. One dedicated to tribute CMWS19, will be mounted to top radiator. The other one is my signature design that I modify and use for all sizes of radiators. This time a full cover including mounting and the parts sorrunding in/outlet ports. They will both be laser cut from 2 mm transparent acrylic and then get a very special treatment!
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Thanks Zeuligan!
  29. 1 point
    Really sexy and awesome (as always) You rock (heja dig)
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    I have a hyper 212 evo that i purchased in 2017 and i recently bought a b450 motherboard and now i cant use this cooler because i dont have a bracket . i have looked everywhere online and no one sells the AM4 Kit anywhere. Where can i get the AM4 kit to mount the cooler ? i dont want to buy another cooler .
  32. 1 point
    This was the most challenging build I have ever done in my life. From surgeries to burns, working with glass tubing really put me in my place. There were countless times where I felt I was in over my head, however, I kept challenging myself to continue the project - and most importantly, to never give up; especially after I stabbed myself with a melted rod that broke inside my finger (which I had to leave in there for a week until I could see the surgeon). When I first started Torch, I thought I had the technique in the bag due to my comfort level with plastic tubing, but, little did I know I was in for a massive surprise. There is absolutely no margin of error when working with this type of tubing, and I cannot even count on my hands the amount of times I broke a pipe when installing the fittings. I will never forget the very clear crunch you would hear when the tube didn't line up perfectly, which ultimately meant the bend was no longer usable because the tip would chip off. Working with this material was an entirely new animal that didn't just require the bend at hand, but instead hours of practice on top of the build to understand the manipulation properties. From simple 90s to welds, working with glass brought me to a whole new horizon of possibilities in tubing, and in turn, bettered me as an artist. In the end, I came up with a machine that was both organic in nature, and a product of an art form that has always amazed me. I was incredibly proud of the results because, at the end of the day, the machine didn't defeat me, and I was able to achieve one of the most compelling builds I feel I have done to date. As far as my favorite feature of the machine outside of the glass work, I would argue that the epoxy resin back panel is almost as captivating. The pattern has such depth in person, that it almost looked like a blue patterned stone pulled right from the Earth. I certainly held my breath during the process because you don't really get a second chance when working with epoxy - and I am beyond thrilled I took the risk. Watch the resin pour here: Reservoir Delete Cooling System Intel i5 8600k @ 5.0GHz Samsung 500GB 970 EVO NVMe GTX 1070 Seahawk MSI Z390 Godlike Zadak Shield 16GB @ 4266MHz EKWB Supremacy Full Nickel EKWB VARDAR 120mm FANS EKWB 360 CE Radiator Thanks for viewing. I hope you enjoyed. Big thanks to EK for helping us on the cooling hardware too. Mod on
  33. 1 point
    SO, the cage main structure is done, while the glue was hardening, i mounted the gpu waterblaock and the bracket. not sure i will use the bracket yet though. once again, in addition to coolermaster, thanks also to asus and thermaltake for the great hardware...
  34. 1 point
    Thank you for your support!!! This is make me happy. I'm doing my best for success this project!
  35. 1 point
    10: CUSTOM WATER COOLING PARTS Custom CM logo shaped acrylic pump top in the making! I designed this to fit D5 pumps and with the flexibility to use different mounting brackets and orientations. Custom CM logo shaped acrylic reservoir to go with the D5 pump top. Features 3 ports and the same mounting abilities as the pump top. One of many tributes to 10th CMWS that's going into this project!
  36. 1 point
    thank you for the appreciation. to be honest, I don't have enough confidence to take part in the "scratch" especially in the master league. this is my first time participating in an international competition. Maybe in the next year, I will consider your suggestions
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    06: FRONT COVER The front cover is a bit more tricky regarding its shape. This means I'll have to cut it and remove a section from the middle to keep the design. As I can't weld aluminium I had to go with a different method using chemical metal for the joint. With edges sanded down to a sharp angle I could get as much chemical metal as possible in the joint. This possible to be sanded down to a smooth surface. It will probably be strong enough on its own but attached to the plastic frame it will be solid. I put chemical metal on both sides to fill the gap. When dried out, this is easy to sand down to a smooth surface before painting. I haven't yet decided which color use for the aluminium covers but do like the CM black version of SL600M. Will probably have to try and see what it looks like But lets jump back to the frame and finish that one shall we!
  39. 1 point
    aamiin insyaalloh
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Mantapp.. lanjutkan master...
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    printing more needed stuff... spacers psu mounting the whole lower hardware-slider mainboard plate fan holders (although i changed them to 2x 80mm with a slot for ssd) wheels and of course as you might have noticed, the frames got painted (lots of times, making the best of many mistakes...haha) also was able to put it all together for a nice preview.
  45. 1 point
    Hi, I just bought an MK850 and I was wondering if there was a way to assign a specific light to a reactive fade for each keys foreground and background. For example, if I want a keys N I A O S B R Z to have a different background and foreground color than the other keys. Would that be possible? If yes how do I do it? Thank you.
  46. 1 point
    I'm having the exact same issue. The ASUS/MSI/ASROCK 4 pin plug is a 3 pin plug.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Hi Installed ML240l rgb on Asus ROG Zenith Extreme motherboard. The pump connector cable has 3 pins, Trying to determine where to connect it on the motherboard. All fan connections on motherboard are 4 pin. The only 3 pin is a water in and out, 3-Pin W_Flow. Thanks in advance for the help. Ron
  49. 1 point
    Hey everyone, Just wanted to write up a review of the MasterMouse MM520 after having used it for a day. I've previously owned the CM Spawn and Xornet II so as soon as the MM520 launched, it was a no brainer for me to order it right away. I heard how some folks that are diehard fans of the Spawn/Xornet might not be so sure about the changes for the MM520, so I wanted to just provide my thoughts on it (as a diehard Spawn/Xornet fan myself.) Shape/Size: (1st Place: Spawn/Xornet II | 2nd Place: MM520) Obviously, the biggest change is the shape and size of the MM520. I took a picture with my phone of the Spawn, Xornet II and MM520, side-by-side to give you guys a rough comparison -- take a look below and see for yourself. As you can see, it's a little bit longer in the left/right mouse button area than the Spawn/Xornet. It took a little bit of getting used to coming from years of using the Spawn/Xornet but what I noticed is that I can pretty much hold it the same way as the Spawn/Xornet as I used to and it feels more or less the same. However, now for those of you with bigger hands and/or longer fingers, you'll have more space to choose where you want to rest your fingertips. Also, with the increase in length I find that depending on how I hold the MM520, the back of it touches my palm which I'm still getting used to. (I think it's also because the groove on the left-side of the mouse for the thumb is a little deeper). With the Spawn/Xornet, I primarily used Claw + Fingertip grip, so the back of the mouse hardly ever touched my palm (that was just my preference; it helped me to do insane flick shots ). The last thing related to the length is that the positioning of the scroll wheel is a little bit further than I'm used to. Previously, with the Spawn/Xornet, my finger would touch the top-half of the scroll wheel to turn it; now it touches the bottom-half. Overall, this is not too hard to get used to. I'd say the second point above about the MM520 touching my palm is the most noticeable change. Weight: (1st Place: Xornet II | 2nd Place: Spawn | 3rd Place: MM520*) According to the specs of all three mice, the weights are: (without the USB cable) http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/mice/spawn/ (90g) http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/mice/xornet-ii/ (80g) http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/mice/mastermouse-mm520/ (101g) I definitely noticed the increase in weight. It didn't affect my aim as much, but it was noticeable. For insanely fast flick shots, a lighter mouse will always be better (it's physics!) * Fortunately, I found a YouTube video that shows how we can remove the internal 12g weight. I think after I remove that, the weight will be perfect. Sensor: (1st Place: MM520 | 2nd Place: Xornet II | 3rd Place: Spawn) Awesome choice on the sensor CoolerMaster. It's just perfect. Don't think things can get any better than this. Texture and Feel: (1st Place: Spawn | 2nd Place Tie: Xornet II and MM520) To be honest, I kinda miss the all-rubberized feel of the Spawn. That was perfect in my opinion. However, with the MM520, I can see the benefits of the new material -- it's no-slip plastic and doesn't seem to attract sweat/oil. I guess I'll find out over time. To those of you who love the rubberized grip feel, rejoice in the fact that the MM520 at least has that on the right side of the mouse for your pinky. I feel like the left-side of the mouse would've benefited from having the same rubberized texture as well (like the Xornet II). Buttons/Scroll Wheel: (1st Place: MM520 | 2nd Place: Xornet II | 3rd Place: Spawn) The MM520 has larger left/right mouse buttons and side buttons. Same tactile feel as the Xornet II. The scroll wheel is better than the Spawn/Xornet II (better grip, smoother scrolling, slightly bigger.) The only minus is there's only one DPI button now (used for TactiX which can act like a SHIFT key for all the buttons). It would've been nice to have two DPI buttons like on the Spawn/Xornet II. Software: Better than the Xornet II/Spawn software for sure. However, the LED editing UI needs a bit of work. It's a little confusing when editing each LED zone. It'd be nice to have some tooltips/help guide to figure out what each setting means. It's also not clear if I can set the LED lights for each DPI setting/profile. I've somehow managed to configure it so that as I cycle between DPIs, the scroll wheel changes color to indicate the DPI setting, and after a few seconds, it goes to the LED settings in the software. I can't figure out how to change the different DPI indicator colors though; seems to be hard-coded as Red, Light Purple, Blue then Green. The only other gripe I have about the MM520 software is that it takes a few seconds to save the profile after I click Apply. But fortunately, I only have to setup my mouse once. TL;DR -- Should you get this or not? Yes! If you previously loved the Spawn/Xornet line of mice and have medium/large hands or long fingers, you'll have an easy time switching to the MM520. However, if you have small hands and felt that the Spawn/Xornet was the perfect size already, then the MM520 might not be for you. If you made it this far, thanks for reading the review and hope it helps! Suggestions to CoolerMaster: For newer versions of the MM520, here's some stuff I'd like to see in the future: 1) Shape/Size: Overall, I think a mouse that has a shape/size somewhere between the Spawn/Xornet II and the current MM520 would be perfect (at least for me ). However, I think if CoolerMaster did what Zowie did for their ZA line of mice by offering different sizes (e.g., ZA11 - Large Size, ZA12 - Medium Size, ZA13 - Small Size), they can appeal to essentially every Claw/Fingertip gamer. Please make it happen CoolerMaster -- you guys are on track to having the perfect claw/fingertip mouse! 2) Weight: I think that by offering different sizes with the same shape like mentioned above could potentially solve this. For newer versions of the MM520, maybe an easier way of adding/removing the weights would help. For now, I think just including replacement feet would be enough for us diehard fans 3) Texture: Bring back a rubberized version like the old Spawn! I'll pay extra for it. 4) Software: I'd really like to be able to customize the LEDs (all the zones) for each DPI setting and profile! Kinda like what was there for the Xornet II. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong with the software right now (like if that functionality exists and I'm just dumb) or it's not supported. Either way, the UI could use some work.
  50. 1 point
    Hi there, You can request your extra mouse feet with our support department over at https://account.coolermaster.com/ Nice to see you are such a fan of the Xornet/Spawn and now MM520 -family