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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    " DESERT RAT " This is the first time I am seriously participating in an international competition. Have also participated in competitions in several forums, but not done as seriously as this CMWS. The theme I use in the "Desert Rat" case is "Military Scifi". but you are free to translate it according to your own perspective. In each work that I make, I try a lot of ideas, and try to use many kinds of materials. For some circumstances, I am very interested in using acrylic or PVC sheet material in making PC modifications. One of my characteristics in PC modification is to manipulate 2D material into a 3D shape. Maybe there are still many shortcomings and require a lot of effort and criticism to improve my work. But it's ok, I accept it gracefully. Behind all this, I want to motivate many talented PC modders in my country. because, "There is never a competency that is not tested in a competition". Thank you in advance to many who have helped me in many ways. Thank you to CoolerMaster for giving me the opportunity in this prestigious competition Take the theme of the human struggle against heat in the desert. just as a PC fights heat from itself. The CoolerMaster product that I use: 1. MasterBox Lite 3.1 | MCW-L3B3-KANN-01 2. Tempered Glass for MasterBox Lite 3.1 | MCA-B300C-TGSP00-LGT 3. MasterFan MF120R ARGB | R4-120R-20PC-R1 x2 4. MasterLiquid ML120R ARGB | MLX-D12M-A20PC-R1 5. V650 | RS650-AFBAG1-EU 6. ARGB Splitter Cable | MFX-AWHN-3NNN1-R1 The hardware that I use in this project are: > MSI A320 PRO2-M2 > AMD Athlon 200GE > Transcend 4gb DDR4 > Samsung 256gb V-NAND NVME SSD > MSI GTX 1050 gaming X 2GB MasterBox Lite 3.1 | MCW-L3B3-KANN-01 Begin to release accessories on the casing as additional information, I don't use a 3D printer in this project. All the details that I made, using acrylic sheet materials with varying thicknesses, acrylic cylinders, and PETG tubing remaining pieces collect some details and match the size of the initial stages
  2. 2 points
    I even forgot to document the process of making a 70mm fan grill. The painting process has been done, even though I haven't yet smoothed every piece I have to repeat the process to make it look smoother. The fan intake that I used was taken from AMD cpu stock cooling fan some revisions must be made to the construction of the support, because there is a difference in the heavy fulcrum between the front and back of the casing. note: in the background there is a sliding window for the side panel that is too focused on it so I forgot to document it
  3. 2 points
    the workmanship that was late I posted. photos lost in the crowd. I did a basic painting. I forgot what date, but it was definitely done by the end of July the process of working 120mm fan grill that I forgot to document. and I only remembered to take a picture after it was done
  4. 2 points
    I made a hinge for the side panel cover. still from acrylic material
  5. 2 points
    I have pointed down psu's fan and it's fine. And u should connect fans to the splitter and splitter to the desk to some SYS_FAN. With MB530P is included just splitter to the psu, not to mobo so you should buy if you wanna control it.
  6. 2 points
    I recently bought the Masterset MS121 in order to use it to control my late 2016 MacBook Pro With the touch bar. However, I found that the keyboard did not work at all. It does not light up or show any form of life. I have plugged it into a windows PC an I have found that it works on that, then I plugged it into an iMac and it doesn't work there either. Is there any way that I can get it working on Mac or will I have to get a refund? Are any of the CM keyboards Mac compatible? Thanks in advance.
  7. 2 points
    I WORKED IT OUT!!! I have the CM ML120 with only one fan connected but this will work if you are using two. I should've done some research because the advertising on the box said Aura Sync, and I would assume it was illegal to advertise such things if it weren't available. I followed all the instructions that was given in the manual, plug cables into AIO header and CPU header, plug the other pump cable into the controller, plug the fans into the splitter which plugs into the controller, then i had to power the bloody thing too and figured out why it didn't work. then with a little research, the thought process was I had to plug SOMETHING into the RGB header on the motherboard... but the question was what! then after a little bit of playing around with different cables (including the 4 pin cable) plugging in and out of the controller it donned on me.... I needed a splitter that connected the pump and fans, and plug that directly into the RGB header on the motherboard. and then Bobs your uncle. Aura sync works instantly!!! So just to reiterate what I have done. Coolermaster supply a 3 way splitter, which you plug the female plugs from the pump and fan(s) into using the Male-Male adapters. Then simply plug the single female end into the 3pin RGB port on your motherboard.
  8. 1 point
    Также были вырезаны наклейки для второго кожуха
  9. 1 point
    14: RADIATOR GRILLS - DESIGN I've been working with a couple of designs for my radiator grills and finished off with these two. One dedicated to tribute CMWS19, will be mounted to top radiator. The other one is my signature design that I modify and use for all sizes of radiators. This time a full cover including mounting and the parts sorrunding in/outlet ports. They will both be laser cut from 2 mm transparent acrylic and then get a very special treatment!
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    I have a hyper 212 evo that i purchased in 2017 and i recently bought a b450 motherboard and now i cant use this cooler because i dont have a bracket . i have looked everywhere online and no one sells the AM4 Kit anywhere. Where can i get the AM4 kit to mount the cooler ? i dont want to buy another cooler .
  12. 1 point
    This was the most challenging build I have ever done in my life. From surgeries to burns, working with glass tubing really put me in my place. There were countless times where I felt I was in over my head, however, I kept challenging myself to continue the project - and most importantly, to never give up; especially after I stabbed myself with a melted rod that broke inside my finger (which I had to leave in there for a week until I could see the surgeon). When I first started Torch, I thought I had the technique in the bag due to my comfort level with plastic tubing, but, little did I know I was in for a massive surprise. There is absolutely no margin of error when working with this type of tubing, and I cannot even count on my hands the amount of times I broke a pipe when installing the fittings. I will never forget the very clear crunch you would hear when the tube didn't line up perfectly, which ultimately meant the bend was no longer usable because the tip would chip off. Working with this material was an entirely new animal that didn't just require the bend at hand, but instead hours of practice on top of the build to understand the manipulation properties. From simple 90s to welds, working with glass brought me to a whole new horizon of possibilities in tubing, and in turn, bettered me as an artist. In the end, I came up with a machine that was both organic in nature, and a product of an art form that has always amazed me. I was incredibly proud of the results because, at the end of the day, the machine didn't defeat me, and I was able to achieve one of the most compelling builds I feel I have done to date. As far as my favorite feature of the machine outside of the glass work, I would argue that the epoxy resin back panel is almost as captivating. The pattern has such depth in person, that it almost looked like a blue patterned stone pulled right from the Earth. I certainly held my breath during the process because you don't really get a second chance when working with epoxy - and I am beyond thrilled I took the risk. Watch the resin pour here: Reservoir Delete Cooling System Intel i5 8600k @ 5.0GHz Samsung 500GB 970 EVO NVMe GTX 1070 Seahawk MSI Z390 Godlike Zadak Shield 16GB @ 4266MHz EKWB Supremacy Full Nickel EKWB VARDAR 120mm FANS EKWB 360 CE Radiator Thanks for viewing. I hope you enjoyed. Big thanks to EK for helping us on the cooling hardware too. Mod on
  13. 1 point
    SO, the cage main structure is done, while the glue was hardening, i mounted the gpu waterblaock and the bracket. not sure i will use the bracket yet though. once again, in addition to coolermaster, thanks also to asus and thermaltake for the great hardware...
  14. 1 point
    Thank you for your support!!! This is make me happy. I'm doing my best for success this project!
  15. 1 point
    Why is not in Scratch!!! This is effing wild. Master class grade build right here FOR SURE!
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    06: FRONT COVER The front cover is a bit more tricky regarding its shape. This means I'll have to cut it and remove a section from the middle to keep the design. As I can't weld aluminium I had to go with a different method using chemical metal for the joint. With edges sanded down to a sharp angle I could get as much chemical metal as possible in the joint. This possible to be sanded down to a smooth surface. It will probably be strong enough on its own but attached to the plastic frame it will be solid. I put chemical metal on both sides to fill the gap. When dried out, this is easy to sand down to a smooth surface before painting. I haven't yet decided which color use for the aluminium covers but do like the CM black version of SL600M. Will probably have to try and see what it looks like But lets jump back to the frame and finish that one shall we!
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Mantapp.. lanjutkan master...
  20. 1 point
    Keep it On Master!!!!!!!
  21. 1 point
    Bought this mouse recently and I love the feel of it, however I cannot install the software so that I can customize the mouse ad turn of the annoying lights or at least a less obnoxious setting. Please Help !!!!
  22. 1 point
    Eager to play Andromeda Mass Effect? Cooler Master will award 10 lucky winners with PC game codes and 2 peripherals on April 11th. Participate in the giveaway here
  23. 1 point
    I have an MSI b450 tomahawk and purchased a 3 fan kit of mf120r argb fans. Upon opening the fan kit, I noticed the connector from the kit for 4 fan headers (label says msi/asus/asrock connector) has a 2nd pin slot that is null (no opening), but my board has all 4 pins present on the board. This means it is unusable on the board. Is there another adapter or something in the kit I am missing?
  24. 1 point
    Are you using the correct sofware? There is the Cooler Master LED Controller software and there is the MasterPlus Beta Software. The LED Controller software has the mirage stuff on it and what you want to use. https://coolermaster.egnyte.com/dl/Z4xAkaxEXA
  25. 1 point
    I'm having the exact same issue. The ASUS/MSI/ASROCK 4 pin plug is a 3 pin plug.
  26. 1 point
    Tell them u want all parts replaced. They sent it to me one by one so it took over a month :D.... It is not complicated but if u get ur faulty parts one by one like me u have to Always waste a lot of time in cable manament and stuff.
  27. 1 point
    Open a Ticket (took 2 days for me to get a answer). Had the same Problem u need a new top, front and a new pcb. Seems u got two old models. They changed a lot
  28. 1 point
    You can use the glass panel from C700P case: https://www.cmstore.eu/case/dual-curved-tempered-glass-side-panel-for-cosmos-c700p/. I've asked them in 2018 the same question and they said it would fit. If you need proof I can post a screenshot from my e-mail or you could contact them directly at: shop@coolermaster.eu .
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    I still have the original paper manual so if you still need it I can scan it for you.
  31. 1 point
    Hello, not sure if you solved your issue or not, but I just went through similar issues with a new H500m and the MSI Gaming Pro Carbon Motherboard. I did eventually get the front fans to be connected in the Mystic Light software. The case should come with a 3-1 fan splitter already connected and that plugs into a normal fan header on the MB to run the fans. The two RGB cables from the fans get combined into the RGB controller. To get it to work with MSI Mystic Light, I connected the front panel reset switch to the controller, the micro-usb cable to a usb 2.0 header on the MB, the aRGB output cable to JRAINBOW on the MB, and the SATA power cable from my power supply. If that's all connected, open up Mystic Light and select JRAINBOW. Set it to Steady and pick a unique color that stands out. Now, use the reset button to cycle through the rgb controller pre-sets until you find the steady color you picked. Now you've selected the JRAINBOW channel and anything you set to it in ML will show on the front fans. Hope this helps ~Von
  32. 1 point
    Hello, same problem here I have 4 BROKEN xornet 2 mouses, all of thm have scroll wheel broken, unfortunaly i've bought mm 520 aswell, and it feels much cheaper and unnecessarily large (i've also removed the weight inside, cause it was too heavy), i've tried g102 but it's too long and not wide enough. Nothing i've found comes close to xornet, either they are much heavier or look like xornet but scaled in size which is not good for me. Funnily enough my hand is very large, but i only move my wrist, i'm really hoping they'll refresh it properly
  33. 1 point
    I was wondering if I could fix the terrible airflow without sacrificing too much of the looks of the MasterBox Lite 5, by replacing the front panel of the Lite 5 with the front panel of the MasterBox MB511. Would it fit without issues? Thanks!
  34. 1 point
    does anyone have the firmware they can upload all the links to cooler master dont work
  35. 1 point
    alot of idiots (like me) who are new to pc building bought this case forgetting to think about airflow. i just want to know if there are front panels that will fit my case with better airflow. thanks in advance
  36. 1 point
    Update: The SATA power cable coming from the front panel looked bigger than normal to me and it didn't occur to me to attach it to the PSU via a SATA power supply cable. This cable is indeed the same that you use for a HDD. I simply connected this cable to the PSU and the power button light lit up. You then just simply take the 3x1 RGB splitter cable, hook it to all the fans and then there is one similar cable left coming from the front control panel. Attach the end of your 3x1 RGB splitter cable to this remaining cable and your fans should fully work. The fans spinning action is totally separate from the power required for the RGB. I feel like an idiot because I originally missed that SATA power supply cable and had no idea where it was supposed to go, but in the end I'm very happy with my purchase. This case looks awesome in person, especially now that it's finally working as it should. Lol : ) The directions that came with it really could be much better. Original post: I am having the same exact problem. I do not have a RGB header on my mobo, but was under the impression that I could still control the RGB fans by the button on the front panel. Not to mention, it says that an RGB controller is included, which I'm assuming is built in on the front panel because I did not receive a separate RGB controller. Having an RGB controller would mean that I should not need an RGB header..... just power to the RGB components....correct? Sorry I'm kind of a newbie.
  37. 1 point
    Just wondering if anyone has a mesh front for this case. When i take off the front panel temps drop about 5-10 degrees. I have the three fans up front, a 240 mlrgb aio push pull on the top ( top and middle fans). If no one has a front mesh cover, would it be better to just take the aio off and go air cooled for the cpu? Would that give me better air flow? I prefer staying with the AIO if i can get a front mesh cover. Thank you.
  38. 1 point
    Title. I just want to know if it the tower's height is too short for both the cooler and the ram sticks.
  39. 1 point
    in my opinion the controller should work with the fans. just make sure you get the right controller. there is RGB and Addressable RGB (mini one). get the RGB controller for your fans.
  40. 1 point
    Hi Installed ML240l rgb on Asus ROG Zenith Extreme motherboard. The pump connector cable has 3 pins, Trying to determine where to connect it on the motherboard. All fan connections on motherboard are 4 pin. The only 3 pin is a water in and out, 3-Pin W_Flow. Thanks in advance for the help. Ron
  41. 1 point
    Just released with link from coolermaster to purchase on newegg!? $139 seems like a great price. typo maybe?
  42. 1 point
    I'd like to know also. Especially now that the 2nd gen CPUs are released. Any ETA? I saw a twitter post from CM that said the goal was "October", but that's all I've heard. No updates or preorder...
  43. 1 point
    I had a problem with a cooler master psu i open a rma ticket but they rejected it without reason. It was my 2nd psu cooler master who stop to work like this i advise you never buy a cooler master psu...
  44. 1 point
    you need to download the masterplus instead of the rgb software. ARGB BOX Firmware v1.0.0.1
  45. 1 point
    I purchased this today as it's listed on Asus own website that its Aura sync compatible. After slogging through the TERRIBLE manual (come on Coolermaster!), i found hours later despite numerous tries that no, it is not compatible with Aura. The Aura plugin is visible when you download the software from CM, but it's greyed out for me. EDIT: Figured it out and got it to sync with Asus Aura - the ML240 needs to have the CM software installed to enable Asus Aura (although the AURA & AURORA plugins are still unaccessible from the software.) I detached the controller and just used the 3in1 aRGB cable, plugged that into the aRGB of the Z370-F, opened both CM & Aura apps, and it synced.
  46. 1 point
    Hey everyone, Just wanted to write up a review of the MasterMouse MM520 after having used it for a day. I've previously owned the CM Spawn and Xornet II so as soon as the MM520 launched, it was a no brainer for me to order it right away. I heard how some folks that are diehard fans of the Spawn/Xornet might not be so sure about the changes for the MM520, so I wanted to just provide my thoughts on it (as a diehard Spawn/Xornet fan myself.) Shape/Size: (1st Place: Spawn/Xornet II | 2nd Place: MM520) Obviously, the biggest change is the shape and size of the MM520. I took a picture with my phone of the Spawn, Xornet II and MM520, side-by-side to give you guys a rough comparison -- take a look below and see for yourself. As you can see, it's a little bit longer in the left/right mouse button area than the Spawn/Xornet. It took a little bit of getting used to coming from years of using the Spawn/Xornet but what I noticed is that I can pretty much hold it the same way as the Spawn/Xornet as I used to and it feels more or less the same. However, now for those of you with bigger hands and/or longer fingers, you'll have more space to choose where you want to rest your fingertips. Also, with the increase in length I find that depending on how I hold the MM520, the back of it touches my palm which I'm still getting used to. (I think it's also because the groove on the left-side of the mouse for the thumb is a little deeper). With the Spawn/Xornet, I primarily used Claw + Fingertip grip, so the back of the mouse hardly ever touched my palm (that was just my preference; it helped me to do insane flick shots ). The last thing related to the length is that the positioning of the scroll wheel is a little bit further than I'm used to. Previously, with the Spawn/Xornet, my finger would touch the top-half of the scroll wheel to turn it; now it touches the bottom-half. Overall, this is not too hard to get used to. I'd say the second point above about the MM520 touching my palm is the most noticeable change. Weight: (1st Place: Xornet II | 2nd Place: Spawn | 3rd Place: MM520*) According to the specs of all three mice, the weights are: (without the USB cable) http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/mice/spawn/ (90g) http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/mice/xornet-ii/ (80g) http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/mice/mastermouse-mm520/ (101g) I definitely noticed the increase in weight. It didn't affect my aim as much, but it was noticeable. For insanely fast flick shots, a lighter mouse will always be better (it's physics!) * Fortunately, I found a YouTube video that shows how we can remove the internal 12g weight. I think after I remove that, the weight will be perfect. Sensor: (1st Place: MM520 | 2nd Place: Xornet II | 3rd Place: Spawn) Awesome choice on the sensor CoolerMaster. It's just perfect. Don't think things can get any better than this. Texture and Feel: (1st Place: Spawn | 2nd Place Tie: Xornet II and MM520) To be honest, I kinda miss the all-rubberized feel of the Spawn. That was perfect in my opinion. However, with the MM520, I can see the benefits of the new material -- it's no-slip plastic and doesn't seem to attract sweat/oil. I guess I'll find out over time. To those of you who love the rubberized grip feel, rejoice in the fact that the MM520 at least has that on the right side of the mouse for your pinky. I feel like the left-side of the mouse would've benefited from having the same rubberized texture as well (like the Xornet II). Buttons/Scroll Wheel: (1st Place: MM520 | 2nd Place: Xornet II | 3rd Place: Spawn) The MM520 has larger left/right mouse buttons and side buttons. Same tactile feel as the Xornet II. The scroll wheel is better than the Spawn/Xornet II (better grip, smoother scrolling, slightly bigger.) The only minus is there's only one DPI button now (used for TactiX which can act like a SHIFT key for all the buttons). It would've been nice to have two DPI buttons like on the Spawn/Xornet II. Software: Better than the Xornet II/Spawn software for sure. However, the LED editing UI needs a bit of work. It's a little confusing when editing each LED zone. It'd be nice to have some tooltips/help guide to figure out what each setting means. It's also not clear if I can set the LED lights for each DPI setting/profile. I've somehow managed to configure it so that as I cycle between DPIs, the scroll wheel changes color to indicate the DPI setting, and after a few seconds, it goes to the LED settings in the software. I can't figure out how to change the different DPI indicator colors though; seems to be hard-coded as Red, Light Purple, Blue then Green. The only other gripe I have about the MM520 software is that it takes a few seconds to save the profile after I click Apply. But fortunately, I only have to setup my mouse once. TL;DR -- Should you get this or not? Yes! If you previously loved the Spawn/Xornet line of mice and have medium/large hands or long fingers, you'll have an easy time switching to the MM520. However, if you have small hands and felt that the Spawn/Xornet was the perfect size already, then the MM520 might not be for you. If you made it this far, thanks for reading the review and hope it helps! Suggestions to CoolerMaster: For newer versions of the MM520, here's some stuff I'd like to see in the future: 1) Shape/Size: Overall, I think a mouse that has a shape/size somewhere between the Spawn/Xornet II and the current MM520 would be perfect (at least for me ). However, I think if CoolerMaster did what Zowie did for their ZA line of mice by offering different sizes (e.g., ZA11 - Large Size, ZA12 - Medium Size, ZA13 - Small Size), they can appeal to essentially every Claw/Fingertip gamer. Please make it happen CoolerMaster -- you guys are on track to having the perfect claw/fingertip mouse! 2) Weight: I think that by offering different sizes with the same shape like mentioned above could potentially solve this. For newer versions of the MM520, maybe an easier way of adding/removing the weights would help. For now, I think just including replacement feet would be enough for us diehard fans 3) Texture: Bring back a rubberized version like the old Spawn! I'll pay extra for it. 4) Software: I'd really like to be able to customize the LEDs (all the zones) for each DPI setting and profile! Kinda like what was there for the Xornet II. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong with the software right now (like if that functionality exists and I'm just dumb) or it's not supported. Either way, the UI could use some work.
  47. 1 point
    Hi there, You can request your extra mouse feet with our support department over at https://account.coolermaster.com/ Nice to see you are such a fan of the Xornet/Spawn and now MM520 -family
  48. 1 point
    Received this bundle today and had the same input problem. After watching a few youtube reviews I came across one video where the girl mentioned the repeat rate, F9 and F10. Once I loaded up a game I confirmed that THAT was the problem. The 8x repeat rate messes with the directional inputs. Setting it back to the standard 1x (FN+F9) fixed it right there. I could even switch between the two to make sure that it was the culprit. I hope this helps anyone who is having this problem! =)
  49. 1 point
    Update: Using a surge protector took care of the issue. Thanks guys
  50. 1 point