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  2. Regarding the Hyper 212X I purchased recently to fit a Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI motherboard (i7 6600K) I am so in tune with your probs John re the threads on the spacers and connection to the backplate through the motherboard. Given the clearance at the back of the motherboard re the cutout I have on my case ! The thread on the so called 'D' spacers went through the motherboard and touched the backplate with next to nothing of the thread coming through! Given an extra 2mm or so would have made the complete installation a breeze BUT no! Which makes me bewildered that these so called designers of this gear can't seem to be on the same page when it comes to actually testing the gear on a real motherboard configuration - if they had the problem would have been instantly recognized! OR are the motherboards they're testing them on super THIN!! Luckily I DID get the 'G' spacers to fit and though loathe to risk the CPU as Cooler master show the 1151 installation using the D standoffs as correct fitting - I am assuming that so long as the thermal paste / conductivity is established I should NOT have any further problems. My advice to Cooler master is SORT your act out!! An extra 2mm on the thread please!
  3. Today
  4. This is a sample video i made when i was taking the pictures!!
  5. coolermaster

    So it goes, after I had to grind all parts again and rework Everything was painted Afterwards, all parts were fixed to the base plate and glued with Acrifix 1S 0116. As expected, of course, I slipped a few times with the syringe, damn grrr The attempt to paint it was not particularly satisfying. I will foliate the places later Despite all this, I am very satisfied with the color concept. I like it:thumbsup: After a long time, I think a good design for the front and the top. It is a mixture of 2mm and 3mm Plexiglas combined in high gloss and matt. So now I began to transfer all the patterns to the Plexiglas and cut them out The front and the top Besides, I disconnect a graphics card from Light Glass, it hurt: heul and this converted to Bitspower. For that, the PCI bracket had to be folded again and painted black For the HDD Cover I now still cut a second plate in white and for the strip of the front plexiglass 2x6mm All parts for the top and the front are now bevelled (is there a term for this in English?) Now the Coolermaster logo away with 2x polyester 2 / K spatula And then I glued the 6mm strips on the front, fixed with seconds glue and the outer edges all closed with Acrifix, really complicated because the front is slightly bent. after the glue was dry, I then again revised the ends of the strips until all straightened with hand and power file, minor damage were 2 / K spatula Then everything again primed and varnished Now the edges of the white plate are polished and So the result. Here everything is already positioned for the water cooling and measured whether everything fits so far. Therefore only the pipes have to be cut. so then, see you soon!
  6. Next step is to apply the bondo around the logo's base. 1st pass and it looks like this.
  7. Very interesting nice idea . I am following with interest
  8. Hey guys! Okay, a little update. I was able to take some photos and tear the view 27 down to confirm some measurements. This will be the motherboard that I will be using. Did some test fitting yesterday to see the areas or the computer case that I could possibly cut off a little bit to make room for a 240mm radiator. My plan is to flip the case 90 degree so the front panel will be the bottom of the case and the top panel will be the front panel. Time to tear the case down to see some more fan or radiator mount. Okay. I was hoping that I could use the half part of the bottom of the case for a 240mm radiator, but since the power supply that I will be using was a bit longer than what I expected, that area will be cut off to make some room for a 140mm intake fan. Looks like the radiators will go either this way. Or this. Looks like I might opt with the last option since the view 27 already has a radiator mount for a 360mm in the front (now the bottom). Now that I have a few options confirmed, I will be working on cutting out some radiator and fan mounts this coming weekend. See you guys on the next update! Ciao!
  9. Here we are again!! This time i'm going to prep the upper panel for the logo to sit and do all the work around its base to look like it melted its way out!! here is the panel slightly sanded!! And here is the "cause" for the sticky situation!! Here are two pictures before i correct it. And here are two corrected!!
  10. Thanks! Yeah, it is quite an undertaking. Coffee table comparison or not, creativity is what this is about. That's why I like yours. Plexiglass is tough to work with (I know the plight all too well) so I can admire what you are having to deal with. Again, thank you. I'm quite excited about all of this, as well! God speed to you, as well.
  11. OOO MY GOD THANK YOU!!! I was having the same problem, and after searching the internet I stumbled across this. I can confirm that this helps.
  12. Alphacool radiators and pump, postition test ...
  13. GPU progress ...
  14. Well, i changed the colors and instead of ruby red i applied red (from another brand i'm using the past 5 years) and black and the result is more than satisfying!! The sad part is that i couldn't find any orange spray can in my workplace and i applied my favorite, red!!
  15. cooler master

    Hello! As announced I made a small engine bonnet. For that I have transferred the fan opening from the lid on aluminum then I have again created me two forms to reshape the aluminum now deformed and cut out the aluminum looking for something I can build a engine bonnet breech, I found it here (right the original) The pins I cut to length and each provided with a hole then halved a key chain and so it should look like after it was painted, I have the engine bonnet covered with carbon foil and glued the bonnet breech it The chipset cooler from the motherboard had to change their color Then I started already times to relate the radiators with leather attempts me times on a small piece of wood, with 2 cm foam material upholster on the headlights I also equipped already with Led's for the area in front of the IO panel I had to create a cover because you could see from there quite well behind the radiator or on the reservoir to let red disappear all the motherboard I have folded a small aluminum sheet and painted to cover all Sataports Cpu Holder was also repainted The cable duct in the MB tray had to be moved, I got him simply cut out and placed to the left behind the Radi bracket The Ram modules I have also mounted casual. but ran is not according to plan. The GSkill have only one side of memory so she slipped always out of the bottom. I have also used it nor the thermal pad of the original cooler. Now when I wanted to mount the cooler on the modules, a problem again. The screws are all 2mm too long. So I got all screws 2mm shorter sanded, unfortunately, had no right here so much for that than next I have the exhaust manifold from the brass tubes tinker.
  16. The side panel doesn't have so much work to be done until the rusting kit arrives, so i took the logo which is going to be placed on-top of the case. As you can see, the logo has some rough edges so i tried to sand them down a bit. Next i decided to paint it to see how it's going to look with crackle paint. Primer first! So, next i applied my technique two colors instantly, and the result is this! No crackles....I didn't let the primer dry properly! Colors are ruby red and black! Two and three layers of paint and still no result!! I have pinched it with a towel to make another effect and re primered it to do it properly! More pictures soon!! Remember, the paint won't remain like this! I'm just trying to see how it's going to look with crackles!
  17. Yeahhhh bro!!!!! More more more!!!
  18. Hello again!! A few hours ago, i ordered this beauty, the dremel moto saw which i want it to make the 2 and the lamda out of acrylic pieces. So, for now, lets focus on the other side panel and make that scorched effect!!
  19. In the description of your video it says click the "Downloads" tab? I cannot find a "Downloads" tab or the download from anybody. Could you just link the download? Thanks!
  20. I need to know how you determine Tower and Scratch. I am using a old CM case, but im changing the whole setup. Only using few parts from old case. Would it be scratch build?
  21. Greetings! I'm SamCa, modder from Philippines. This will be my official entry for Cooler Master Case Mod World Series 2017 Scratch build category Huge thanks to EVGA and Cooler Master Philippines for the support! I will be building project "Winged Victory of Mercy" The mod was inspired from the the greatest masterpiece of Hellenistic sculpture, Winged Victory of Samothrace... ....with a mix. The design will be combined with Angela Zeigler aka Mercy (from Overwatch). I decided to pick her because she perfectly fits as the "modern angel" of the mod. I modeled her into the looks of the statue and the planned scratch case. I will be using metal bars for it's base to support the motherboard, gpu, psu, rads ,reservoirs and specially the radiator . The Motherboard is placed below together with the reservoir and gpu. The storage devices and psu will be inside the body. (I will make a mechanism in which i could open the body to expose the storage parts and psu) the radiator is placed at the top as well the fans with it. The watercooling tubes will be sketched throughout the build. For the armor, I will be using fiberglass and resin. For the other details like the wings, i will be using acrylic sheets.
  22. case mod world series 2017

    We are a team of two guys from South Africa trying this for the first time. We have a wide range of ideas and putting them to use. For now we are limited on what to use. But we are making the best of what we have.
  23. O vídeo ficou perfeito! Você é muito criativa.. Bjo bjo...
  24. Ay buddy, so you can boot into your bios? Remove everything and keep rebooting, add things one at a time. Use only 1 stick of ram while you're doing this. Make sure nothing metal is touching the mobo.
  25. It is very hard to see on the picture, as it is blurry. Can you take another one please?
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